Now that I think about it, I should have suspected that something was wrong when I smelled cheap bourbon on the mechanic’s breath. But what if I had and my engine hadn’t thrown that rod on the road back down to Oaxaca? Would Saskia Martin have ever got her son back from the kidnappers in Mexico?
For me, the adventure started with a surfing trip to Costa Rica in January of 1972. Over a couple of Carta Blancas with my old friend and former editor, Bill Cleary, we decided to throw a few surfboards on his VW campervan, load up with camping gear and provisions, and surf ourselves silly in Southern Mexico and Central America.

Looking back on it now, it is difficult for me to think of all this as having happened over 30 years ago. Or that the 3-and-a-half year old boy that I helped to reunite with his mother would be a grown man, possibly with children of his own. It’s also difficult for anyone who hasn’t driven from Malibu, California to San Jose, Costa Rica and back to understand just how dangerous and exciting it was in those days. But it was, and probably still is.
This first trip lasted nearly two months. After surfing in El Salvador and Costa Rica’s Nicoyan Peninsula, and exploring almost as far south as Panama, Bill felt that it was time for him to return home to catch up with his young son Omar. On the way back up through Central America, I was offered a management job at a large international hotel in El Salvador. So we headed straight back to Malibu where I planned to grab some appropriate clothes, stock up on a few essentials (like an efficient ice-chest) and return to San Salvador in my trusty VW bug.

My mistake was taking the car to a local Volkswagen dealership to have a thorough mechanical checkup, including tune-up and oil & lube. It was a mistake because I normally did my own basic maintenance to ensure the valves were adjusted properly so the air-cooled VW engine didn’t get a chance to overheat. I also knew that VW dealerships – for reasons best known to them – generally tended to adjust the valves too tightly. Which is why I made a point of asking for the setting I preferred. Bottom line: I was in such a hurry that I didn’t follow my ‘little voice’ when it warned me to double check the valve settings – especially after I smelled alcohol on the mechanic’s breath when I picked it up.
Never mind. It was all part of the ongoing adventure. And although my journey from Malibu to San Diego and across the bottom of Arizona to El Paso and Juárez went without a hitch, I experienced something I’ll never forget on the road between Chihauhau and Durango.
I’d been driving almost nonstop since sunrise. When the desert sky started showing streaks of red, I picked an area with nothing but cactus and scrub to be seen for miles, and pulled off the highway to set up camp.
The air cooled quickly after the spectacular light show faded. I downed a couple of chilled beers, scarfed some cheese and crackers, and heated up a can vegetable soup. Assembling my sturdy army surplus cot, I squeezed insect repellent on each of the wooden legs, erected a makeshift awning consisting of an army surplus pancho and stretched it over the passenger door and an old telescoping tent pole. Settling down in my sleeping bag for an early night I tucked my small, nine-shot .22 automatic snugly under the pillow.
As usual when camping out, the next morning began abruptly with sunrise. But unlike any previous morning of my life, I awoke to find my self lying in a semicircle made up of 40 or more people.
It was the silence that hit me first. Then, after I put on my glasses, the total lack of expression on anyone’s face. They didn’t look friendly. They didn’t look unfriendly. They just looked – straight at me. It seemed so very strange, unreal … surreal. Men and women of varying ages from old to young, and children from babies wrapped in brightly woven blankets carried by their mothers, to children aged 12 or so. It could have been a large family gathering for all I knew.
With some difficulty, I slipped on my jeans while still in my sleeping bag. I must have looked something like a large heaving caterpillar. Then I slipped into my ‘flip-flops’ and stood up slowly. A few men exchanged looks at that point and for the first time I realized that all of these people were Indians and that I was at least a foot and half taller than the tallest of them.
I smiled and said ‘good morning’ in my best Spanish, and only the men replied, some removing their hats and bowing slightly. Taking my cue, I also bowed and that seemed to go down quite well. Then I rummaged around the back seat to find the large plastic bag full of brightly wrapped candies I usually carry when I travel South. Grabbing a handful I offered them to the children.
Hesitantly, the children looked up to the adults and after receiving some sort of silent approval, rushed forward to form an even smaller semicircle close to the car. At first they were very shy and wouldn’t look at me directly. But as I placed the candies in each little hand the child would smile deeply into my eyes, say, “Gracias, señor,” and for some inexplicable reason, hop once in the air before rushing back to their place in the crowd.
By that time all of the people were beginning to smile and talk quietly among themselves. But still they kept their distance. Then a large dusty bus bounced off the highway and stopped a short distance away. All at once the silence was broken. And in what appeared to be a synchronized flurry of activity, baskets were heaved onto heads, small children lifted onto hips and every member of the group gave me a big smile and shouted their blessings for a safe journey before boarding the bus. Then they were gone.
Standing there in the cool morning air I looked around and around, and all I could see was flat empty desert stretching to distant pink-hued mountains. To this day I have no idea of where those forty or so people came from or where the were going.
Kidnap in Oaxaca © Robert R. Feigel 2022 – All Rights Reserved






















